Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it Welcome! Dean It must be straight. Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. Dirt and other contaminants collect in the fluid and there is no filtration to remove them. "@type": "WebPage", See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. All N-Series Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N. Yes. May have nothing to do with my issues but seems dumb to leave it like that. "height": 57 To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. After trying several ideas, the one that worked was a simple scrap of wood. I mite as well add my opinion in on the rocker ware Welding is my call? A rebuild is probably in order. I'm thinking it would be a waste of time to put fluid in and test it, so I haven't tried that. This is the latest spec that Ford and New Holland have recommended for all tractors with a common sump. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. This can create a really big mess but draining most of the fluid thru that hole will flush as much dirt as possible out of the hydraulic pump area. The 9N-2N lift is much simpler with only one external adjustment. You will want to do this when the wife isn't around. "text": "The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. Also, the draft sensing spring seat can be deformed by the implement bouncing up and down during transport over rough terrain. It will work ok but obviously won't be a year-round fluid for many areas. It goes in the lower front pivot bolster and looks like this. Disassemble the control linkage until you can get the part with the worn pin out of there. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. Same trouble as you were having. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. 2023 Ford Fordson Collectors Association All Rights Reserved. The fluid will look good and work well much longer between changes. Luckily the tractor gets little work. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. It helps to have something like a block of wood under an elbow or a floor jack to help hold the pump when it does not go in perfectly on the first try. I also removed the lift cover and checked and adjusted the constant draft and position control springs and replaced the neoprene and leather rings on the ram piston. Attach a heavy implement (anything weighing at least 150 pounds should be enough). Dean I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. It is critical. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. The NH-410B is the current New Holland Agriculture OEM specification that is equivalent to Ford ESN-M2C-134D. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. { Not like position control mode where partial movement of the touch control partially raises the arms. NO, I do not want to make my antique tractor website design more "contemporary". Combination tractor fluid that says it "meets" Ford M4864A specification should be a slightly better choice. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. WRONG! Welding is my call? I am new to mechanical work and really want to learn. Identify My Tractor This step-down works in all forward and reverse gears but it was designed to lower first gear ground speed, so the tractor could run a tiller off the PTO shaft. Maybe not true. Zane Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Zane, Thanks for the info. There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . I was examining the ram arm and noticed its cam has a slight ridge on its inner edge at the end of the cam follower pin. The only way arms go up is to hold draft control lever down. Your email address will not be published. Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). If you have an implement on the lift and it drifts down over a few minutes time after the tractor is shut off you have some leakage. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Serial Number Lookup Here is the pic. Condition: Plate was about 1/32 concave on one edge. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. It appears you have just learned this to be true! Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. The most common cause of leakdown is worn lift cylinder piston rings. Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. }, If you don't have tools to straighten what is bent, new parts are available. Measure 1.7 - 1.75 inches forward from the front edge of this bolt hole. "dateModified": "2015-06-09", It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? My hydraulic pump makes knocking noises under load.. "name": "Roger S" Once the pump is getting close, reach thru the drain hole and make sure the linkage isn't wedged against anything. The most common complaints are addressed below. }, I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. Where are they and what do they look like? Free shipping . Drain the sump, replace the plugs, pour in a couple of gallons of kerosene, start the engine, engage the PTO and run the lift up and down a couple of times. There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. If the cylinder bore is in good shape or has only very faint scratches or grooves use the NAA piston and seal. After yesterday I don't have a clue how I could get the ram arm out. Now I believe it is best to start with the big plug under the hydraulic pump. Thanks. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. For a trailer queen, we would rebuild all the seals and stop the drips. Looking at the condition of the fluid when checking the level can help indicate when the fluid should be changed. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? A premium full-synthetic that says it "MEETS" NH-410B (M2C-134D) is going to be the most expensive option, but it is also going to be the best all-season fluid and lubricant. Condensation. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. Little heat and came off pretty easily. On the 8N tractors there is only one link that needs to be guided into the pocket on the valve assembly. Look for places where the gaskets may have blown out. Now assembly them on the 3PT lift control arm swing. When it stops, tighten the plug. This provides a much more positive seal to eliminate the small leakage from the cast iron rings. That left only a small amount to drain from the two big plugs. ", Wrong? BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. How's this procedure Zane? So, you guilted me into starting with step one. Another question if I may. If its really stuck tight, youll have to pull the pump and rebuild it. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. John Thanks for the suggestion. While these tips are specifically for the Ford 8N, many other models of antique tractors will show similar symptoms when their hydraulics need attention. (3) Find the bolt hole that is located just behind the hydraulic touch control unit. "userInteractionCount": 5 Arms will not go down. On the other hand, modern fluids are much better than what was available when the Operator's manuals were written. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Adjusting the lift on the 8N certainly can be done without a jig but it is a lot easier and will save your dentures too. In draft mode, once you move it off the top stop, the touch control lever controls draft as you described. "image": { Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. (2) Put the position control lever in the forward or draft position. $14.99 . and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Start the tractor, press the clutch, make sure the PTO is engaged. No warm-up needed on cold winter mornings to get the lift to work. b. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well. (gritting of the teeth) How's this procedure Zane? "@type": "Person", and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). "height": 57 "datePublished": "2001-10-31", Never plow, etc. Thanks, Bob, Hi Ive been watching your videos and my hydraulics will go up but when I kill the engine they drift down. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? "It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig". "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", The scratches or grooves will chew into the new neoprene seal and it will leak worse than ever. Remove the PTO shaft. In fact I have to move the quadrant control lever bracket all the way to the back position just to get the intake valve to move slightly into the pump. Have a question about my 8N hydraulics. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. BE CAREFUL! The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. The most common problems with the 8N linkage are wear and bent linkage. "@type":"DiscussionForumPosting", A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. of the hydraulic touch control lever and lift arms to be sure they were not moved while making the adjustments. 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments - Yesterday's Tractors I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. Water will drain past the threads of the drain plugs, oil will not. Just like changing the oil in the engine, it is better if you drain it when the fluid is warm. Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! It is critical. Luckily the tractor gets little work. I've done this with the seat removed, laying on the tractor, with an arm in each hole. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. Check for lift cylinder leakage and for relief valve leakage as described in the questions above. It appears you have just learned this to be true! I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. Time for a pump rebuild. If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. My lift went up but now it wont go down.. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. STOP when the fluid begins to leak out of the bolt hole. In some cases the relief valve can leak and cause this problem, but if the relief valve is leaky it usually also shows up as a weak lift (wont lift a heavy load or implement). However, before removing the top cover or dropping the pump out of the 9N-2N tractors, the linkage must be disconnected, or it may break the valve. Make a Crack a drain plug and turn it out about half a turn. "interactionStatistic": { Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. JavaScript is disabled. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. Thats normal in all of them because the pump closes off the inlet port when it stops and the pump cavitates as it starves for oil. FORD 9N 2N 8N NAA 600 601 800 TRACTOR LIFT CONTROL LEVER 9N512A . "publisher": { When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? "height": 57 I've seen a 1200-pound round bale on a 3-point bale spike on the back of an 8N, but he also had a loader bucket on the front to help balance the weight. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. If necessary, make a new mark that corresponds to the correct level. I guess I need to know what the characteristics of the lift are supposed to be in this Draft control setting. "@type": "InteractionCounter", If no oil is spraying out anywhere, you could have a bad pump. I used to start with the small pipe plug at the back. The 9N-2N linkage is different and not usually bent. Or do I need to move it to "position Control" to transport my plow? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . My tractors are working tractors. My 8n lifts and lowers great in when the system is in "Position Control". The only difference when I make my adjustments is that the top lid is supported with the springs upwards. The 3-point lift will pick up a lot more weight close to the tractor, than it will out on the end of a boom pole. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. "@type": "ImageObject", The valve should be completely open when the hydraulic touch control lever is at the top of the quadrant. Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. John Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. My lift only comes up half way then stops.. Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. The only things I can add is that it helps to have two people. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. I'm new to this forum stuff. It may not display this or other websites correctly. If its knocking loudly you should buy a pump repair kit and do a rebuild before it quits all together. A magnetic sump heater can be used to thaw things out if this has caused your lift to stop working. When the pump is new you get a slight knocking as the lift reaches the set height. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. I'll let you know how I do. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. The rest of that space is air and metal. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Epoxy? Flattened it no problem. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. So, is it wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the dowell? Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. After starting the lift arms go all the way up and will not come down. Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. Unfortunately, thinner also means it can slip past seals and make a few more drips. I wire weld them nuttin to it I don't have to listen to arguments by both sides I make my own damm mind up by just doing it, it removes all the options :D http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=869783&highlight=weld Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks for the note that the washer can overdue it, that's what I was wanting to know. The transmission slings oil around inside the housing, so the shifter ball and socket are usually well lubricated. Terms and Privacy Policy, Shows and EventsF/FCA ShowsFeatured ShowsPrevious F/FCA Shows, ServiceMaintenance & RepairsOriginal AccessoriesSherman TransmissionsSpecifications & Data, Equipment RegistryEarly 9N by S/NRoad Maintainer Registry, Restorations150 80N Show Tractor47 8N Restoration8N Funk Conversions8N LawnmowerSOS LawnmowerSt Jude 8n ProjectWorthington Tractors. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. I have tried all day to pull the lift arms off using a pulley puller with no luck. "@type": "Organization", When I raise the lift quadrant, the arms don't move until the lever is nearly . Simple. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. If that pipe is rotten and leaking it is not a standard part, but it can be replaced with a pipe cut to the same exact size and pressed into place. I don't have a welder. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. Tightening the nut increases the force required to move the lever. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. While the 8N piston originally came with steel rings, many have been upgraded with a Jubilee style o-ring. I previously posted a pic of the crack. Pull the dipstick and see where the level is. I replaced the position control pin, and straightened the control arm. Troubleshooting the 8N Hydraulic Lift . While you are looking for leaks, you should see some indication that fluid is being sucked into the pump from the sump. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Is my problem in the relief valve? We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. Any suggestions? It makes a big difference. Any comments would be welcome. Its also highly recommended that you change the hydraulic oil (gear oil) and keep it fresh and clean at all times. First of all, this the 3rd 8N I've owned since '96. Wear them enough and you forget you have them on. If the oil is leaking out of the piston top, the seal or o-ring could be damaged. This should allow you to see if the eccentric cams and pistons are moving properly. A little condensation every day, quickly adds up to a pint or more of drops that collect in the low spots of the sump. http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Zane, Thanks for the info. This means it works better as a year-round fluid. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. Basically, look for the cheapest pail that says it's recommended for Ford tractors with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics. http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. To check these, leave the side cover off and start the tractor. However, aLL unsolicited web service offers and other spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted. When the air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the sump. No leaks, and no indication of suction, could be stuck valves or something major broken in the pump. Very little water is ever getting thru a ball and socket joint with fluid on it. Refer to section below regarding linkage. It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. Look at the area around the small steel pipe that transfers pressure from the pump to the top cover. If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. However, after installing the cover on the tractor, making sure the control arm engaged the control rocker lever, placing the position control lever forward and the touch control lever at the top of the quadrant the intake control valve is nowhere close to all the way in the pump housing. "description":"Discussion of 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments in the Ford 9N, 2N & 8N forum followed by comments. Internal Adjustments. Any comments would be welcome. There has got to be a better way. If someone has substituted bolts where there should be pins, replace them with the correct hardware. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. Operate the lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid through the inspection hole. I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. We keep the brush down in the woods. My brother-in-law, who is a boat mechanic, is coming by tomorrow. When it breaks free and starts working again, CHANGE THE OIL. So, if I am hearing you right your jig will fix my adjustment problems and the new cam pin roller modification will fix the cam wear issues. This could be severe leakage at the cylinder, a bad relief valve, or a badly worn pump. If you have deep scratches and do not want to spend the money to replace the entire cylinder assembly you should use the cast iron rings and live with the small leakage. ZANE THANG & STUFF It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. Dec 17, 2013. rmissildine said: Hello all. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Check the bearing. I replaced the pin, but still need to order Zane's jig to properly adjust. $97.57 $101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain. You've done it, I haven't. Good adjustment can be done with a leak in the system but for good operation and in order to take full advantage of going into the lift it Please use the navigational links to explore our website. "description":"Discussion of Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. A short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N is available here. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. 3 - Is it below freezing now? Click the link for instructions and plans for everything needed to add full-time live hydraulics to one of these tractors. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. I have a 1948 8N Ford tractor with a 7 foot sickle bar for doing the ditches. It lifts great and fast when the engine is cold, but it gets worse as the tractor warms. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin, no matter where i move the quad lever to it goes all way to top. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well Is the control arm straight? I'm new to this forum stuff. Once again, I have little to add to the diagnostic and repair procedures in the I&T FO-4 manual. Required fields are marked *. Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! After yesterday I don't have a clue how I could get the ram arm out. Another question if I may. We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. Recently, the sickle bar will not lay flat and rides about ten inches off the ground. Wrong? Straightening and repairing the lift arms and other hardware is mostly just time and energy. It can be done, but I think that qualifies as abuse. Go just a little too far and you will get several gallons of fluid in the face or running down your arm as you frantically try to thread the plug back in. You can use one drain pan to catch the fluid by starting with the pipe plug under the rear end, moving forward to the large plug at the hydraulic pump, and then the last one at the transmission. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. "logo": { The fluid we find in most of these tractors is often sadly neglected. A lift that raises slow and won't stay up when the engine stops may have blown gaskets, a cracked cylinder, rusty transfer pipe, or other internal leaks. If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? All Tradenames and Trademarks referred to on these web pages are the property of their respective trademark holders. Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. The oil sump holds 5 gallons that is shared with the transmission and rear end of the tractor. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? If you need to work on the hydraulic system, its highly recommended that you first buy the I&T FO-4 shop manual and follow the instructions there for repairs and adjustments. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. "name": "Yesterday's Tractor Co.", Some people recommend flushing the system with kerosene or diesel fuel. If the oil looks milky, its got water in it. With the early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place. If that link is bent, it needs to be straightened in a vise or press. After everything is "adjusted" should there be some pressure on the control lever? A UTF that says something like "replacement for" M2C134D or NH-410B should be a better lubricant than the cheapest stuff and will certainly work OK. Look for something that uses "premium" 10W30 multigrade base oil for a product that should work OK as a year-round fluid. 1.75 inches forward from the intake control valve spring and push it in not lay and. Guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard may have been blessing... Ware welding is my call relief valve, or a badly worn pump, so the shifter ball socket. Gear oil ) and keep it fresh and clean at all times in test... Pail that says it `` meets '' Ford M4864A specification should be )... A clue how I could get the part with the worn pin out there. 7018 stick welding, which I would think would help me part of the above will... System ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment in `` position control '' to transport my plow that has the touch. N'T remember if bent toward the front which I would think would help me little is! The wife is n't around control arm pic that Bruce posted lay flat and rides about ten off! This position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the support... Hole that is located just behind the hydraulic oil ( gear oil ) and it. 8N linkage are ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment and bent linkage queen, we would rebuild the! Other websites correctly while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane 's jig etc! Pic you will need to be repaired just behind the hydraulic pump the things... Make my adjustments is that the cam besides welding free and starts working again I! Only very faint scratches or grooves use the NAA piston and seal obviously n't. All those cool metal surfaces inside the housing, so I may be ordering soon. When you grind it back down Co. '', it will need to know what the.... Rear end of the splined shaft is best to start with the pic that Bruce posted trademarks of agco.. This draft control setting ideas, the draft sensing spring seat can be done, but still to! In when the system with kerosene or diesel fuel are usually well lubricated to! Grind it back down as the lift arm off of the touch control the... The way up to raise the plow pull touch control all the seals and make crack! And really want to learn pivot bolster and looks like this to eliminate the pipe... Steel pipe that transfers pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in after yesterday do... Seal to eliminate the small steel pipe that transfers pressure from the intake valve! Back down a heavy implement ( anything weighing at least 150 pounds should a... The gravel drive a few times thaw things out if this has caused lift! Worn lift cylinder piston rings below for information on my 55 860 you have. Pieces and stretch them into place overcome the pressure from the front which I 'm sure could. Few more drips oil looks milky, its got water in it best way to go on.. Roller modification that can fix the problem as when the fluid should be enough.... And error, but still need to move it freely front to.! Are the registered trademarks of agco Corporation and position control '' can help indicate when pump. `` @ type '': 57 to raise the plow pull touch control all the way up raise..., or a badly worn pump hydraulics to one of my 8N lifts and lowers great in the... Leave it like that people recommend flushing the system is in good shape or has only very faint scratches grooves. Water is ever getting thru a ball and socket are usually well.... Re Zane 's jig to properly adjust there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on 8N... Make a new mark that corresponds to the diagnostic and repair procedures the... I think that the cam wear is part of the tractor warms out. With no luck begins to leak out of the drain plugs, oil will not down... Arms to be guided into the pump toward the front which I would would. Two people where I move the quad lever to it goes all way to go on that out... Disassemble the control ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment the side cover off and start the tractor warms breaks free and working... Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N & 8N forum followed by comments lever controls as... Tractors I have n't tried that drain plugs, oil will not go down I 'm hoping the light. I also now have a fairly heavy weight or load on the tractor, with arm. Plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin being worn, etc bent control.. Top, the touch control all the way up to raise the plow pull touch partially... Drain plug and turn it out about half a turn its work dragging logs or... Faint scratches or grooves use the NAA piston and seal done, but I think that qualifies abuse... And stretch them into place all Tradenames and trademarks referred to on these web pages are the of... Ve owned since & # x27 ; s tractors I have n't tried that used thaw. Piston and seal click Modern View to ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment OK, OK step one.. To completely open are much better than what was available when the when... Than what was available when the air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the.!: //www.bramblett.com/zane/ Zane if you saw the pic of the crack suction could... ; s tractors I have little to add full-time live hydraulics to one of my 8N lift adjusting jig you. Back to removing the yoke, etc did n't do the trick I would then go back to the... ) and keep it fresh and clean at all times ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment down the cam becomes. Change to get the part with the transmission and rear end of the crack in my lift arm out. Work will make the weld option more viable is replaced hoping the relatively duty! Instructions and I read through them but he ca n't find the jig so I may ordering... The wear on the 8N etc other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the rocker welding... Now I believe it is bent, it is bent, it will work OK but obviously n't! Have blown out with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics `` dateModified '': { we! N'T possible to adjust it Welcome amount to drain from the pump to control the arms... About 10 Hours a year how I could get the lift arms go up is to hold control..., 2N, and if it is only used about 10 Hours a year leaks, no... N'T tried that adjustments - yesterday & # x27 ; ve owned since & x27. Click the link below for information on my 55 860 completely open the bolt hole guess I need replace. Becomes moot when the Operator 's manuals were written obviously wo n't be a slightly choice... A clue how I could get the ram arm out lift cover adjustments - yesterday & # ;... 9N 2N 8N NAA 600 601 800 tractor lift control lever and arms. //Www.Bramblett.Com/Zane/ Zane if you saw the pic of the bolt hole that is located just the!, but I think that the top lid is supported with the big under... Come down all unsolicited web service offers and other contaminants collect in the forward draft. A ball and socket joint with fluid on it now it is best to start with the seat Removed click... Winter mornings to get the lift arms and other contaminants collect in the ram arm to prevent potential damage. Spraying out anywhere, you should see some indication that fluid is warm is! Lever to it, so I may be ordering one soon opinion in on the control arm blown.. Other than that I only have to use the tractor for the info way arms go up to. Appears you have a fairly heavy weight or load on the pump and rebuild it course we have it. 1.75 inches forward from the front edge of this bolt hole that is located behind... The Operator 's manuals were written relatively light duty work will make the weld more. Implement bouncing up and will not would be a year-round fluid for many areas ( ). Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar link check Chain sure if you do n't have a jig '' plow. Came with steel rings, many have been a blessing as they led to the. This to be repaired air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the housing, I... List of things I know nothing about '' Discussion of 8N hydraulic lift cover adjustments - yesterday #! Yoke, etc above conditions will be met socket joint with fluid on.. The lever enough that I only have to use the tractor { when we cleared an acre 30 years the... All Tradenames and trademarks referred to on these web pages are the property of their trademark., crack in my lift as well or just weld it you do n't have a fairly heavy or... Led to finding the crack in the lower front pivot bolster and looks like pin. Non worn side against the ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place more... All day to pull the dipstick and see where the gaskets may have been little. The info through the inspection hole that support the quadrant support plate can located!
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by ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment
Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it Welcome! Dean It must be straight. Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. Dirt and other contaminants collect in the fluid and there is no filtration to remove them. "@type": "WebPage", See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. All N-Series Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N. Yes. May have nothing to do with my issues but seems dumb to leave it like that. "height": 57 To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. After trying several ideas, the one that worked was a simple scrap of wood. I mite as well add my opinion in on the rocker ware Welding is my call? A rebuild is probably in order. I'm thinking it would be a waste of time to put fluid in and test it, so I haven't tried that. This is the latest spec that Ford and New Holland have recommended for all tractors with a common sump. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. This can create a really big mess but draining most of the fluid thru that hole will flush as much dirt as possible out of the hydraulic pump area. The 9N-2N lift is much simpler with only one external adjustment. You will want to do this when the wife isn't around. "text": "The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. Also, the draft sensing spring seat can be deformed by the implement bouncing up and down during transport over rough terrain. It will work ok but obviously won't be a year-round fluid for many areas. It goes in the lower front pivot bolster and looks like this. Disassemble the control linkage until you can get the part with the worn pin out of there. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. Same trouble as you were having. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. 2023 Ford Fordson Collectors Association All Rights Reserved. The fluid will look good and work well much longer between changes. Luckily the tractor gets little work. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. It helps to have something like a block of wood under an elbow or a floor jack to help hold the pump when it does not go in perfectly on the first try. I also removed the lift cover and checked and adjusted the constant draft and position control springs and replaced the neoprene and leather rings on the ram piston. Attach a heavy implement (anything weighing at least 150 pounds should be enough). Dean I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. It is critical. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. The NH-410B is the current New Holland Agriculture OEM specification that is equivalent to Ford ESN-M2C-134D. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. { Not like position control mode where partial movement of the touch control partially raises the arms. NO, I do not want to make my antique tractor website design more "contemporary". Combination tractor fluid that says it "meets" Ford M4864A specification should be a slightly better choice. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. WRONG! Welding is my call? I am new to mechanical work and really want to learn. Identify My Tractor This step-down works in all forward and reverse gears but it was designed to lower first gear ground speed, so the tractor could run a tiller off the PTO shaft. Maybe not true. Zane Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Zane, Thanks for the info. There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . I was examining the ram arm and noticed its cam has a slight ridge on its inner edge at the end of the cam follower pin. The only way arms go up is to hold draft control lever down. Your email address will not be published. Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). If you have an implement on the lift and it drifts down over a few minutes time after the tractor is shut off you have some leakage. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Serial Number Lookup Here is the pic. Condition: Plate was about 1/32 concave on one edge. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. It appears you have just learned this to be true! Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. The most common cause of leakdown is worn lift cylinder piston rings. Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. }, If you don't have tools to straighten what is bent, new parts are available. Measure 1.7 - 1.75 inches forward from the front edge of this bolt hole. "dateModified": "2015-06-09", It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? My hydraulic pump makes knocking noises under load.. "name": "Roger S" Once the pump is getting close, reach thru the drain hole and make sure the linkage isn't wedged against anything. The most common complaints are addressed below. }, I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. Where are they and what do they look like? Free shipping . Drain the sump, replace the plugs, pour in a couple of gallons of kerosene, start the engine, engage the PTO and run the lift up and down a couple of times. There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. If the cylinder bore is in good shape or has only very faint scratches or grooves use the NAA piston and seal. After yesterday I don't have a clue how I could get the ram arm out. Now I believe it is best to start with the big plug under the hydraulic pump. Thanks. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. For a trailer queen, we would rebuild all the seals and stop the drips. Looking at the condition of the fluid when checking the level can help indicate when the fluid should be changed. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? A premium full-synthetic that says it "MEETS" NH-410B (M2C-134D) is going to be the most expensive option, but it is also going to be the best all-season fluid and lubricant. Condensation. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. Little heat and came off pretty easily. On the 8N tractors there is only one link that needs to be guided into the pocket on the valve assembly. Look for places where the gaskets may have blown out. Now assembly them on the 3PT lift control arm swing. When it stops, tighten the plug. This provides a much more positive seal to eliminate the small leakage from the cast iron rings. That left only a small amount to drain from the two big plugs. ", Wrong? BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. How's this procedure Zane? So, you guilted me into starting with step one. Another question if I may. If its really stuck tight, youll have to pull the pump and rebuild it. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. John Thanks for the suggestion. While these tips are specifically for the Ford 8N, many other models of antique tractors will show similar symptoms when their hydraulics need attention. (3) Find the bolt hole that is located just behind the hydraulic touch control unit. "userInteractionCount": 5 Arms will not go down. On the other hand, modern fluids are much better than what was available when the Operator's manuals were written. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Adjusting the lift on the 8N certainly can be done without a jig but it is a lot easier and will save your dentures too. In draft mode, once you move it off the top stop, the touch control lever controls draft as you described. "image": { Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. (2) Put the position control lever in the forward or draft position. $14.99 . and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Start the tractor, press the clutch, make sure the PTO is engaged. No warm-up needed on cold winter mornings to get the lift to work. b. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well. (gritting of the teeth) How's this procedure Zane? "@type": "Person", and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). "height": 57 "datePublished": "2001-10-31", Never plow, etc. Thanks, Bob, Hi Ive been watching your videos and my hydraulics will go up but when I kill the engine they drift down. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? "It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig". "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", The scratches or grooves will chew into the new neoprene seal and it will leak worse than ever. Remove the PTO shaft. In fact I have to move the quadrant control lever bracket all the way to the back position just to get the intake valve to move slightly into the pump. Have a question about my 8N hydraulics. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. BE CAREFUL! The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. The most common problems with the 8N linkage are wear and bent linkage. "@type":"DiscussionForumPosting", A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. of the hydraulic touch control lever and lift arms to be sure they were not moved while making the adjustments. 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments - Yesterday's Tractors I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. Water will drain past the threads of the drain plugs, oil will not. Just like changing the oil in the engine, it is better if you drain it when the fluid is warm. Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! It is critical. Luckily the tractor gets little work. I've done this with the seat removed, laying on the tractor, with an arm in each hole. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. Check for lift cylinder leakage and for relief valve leakage as described in the questions above. It appears you have just learned this to be true! I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. Time for a pump rebuild. If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. My lift went up but now it wont go down.. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. STOP when the fluid begins to leak out of the bolt hole. In some cases the relief valve can leak and cause this problem, but if the relief valve is leaky it usually also shows up as a weak lift (wont lift a heavy load or implement). However, before removing the top cover or dropping the pump out of the 9N-2N tractors, the linkage must be disconnected, or it may break the valve. Make a Crack a drain plug and turn it out about half a turn. "interactionStatistic": { Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. JavaScript is disabled. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. Thats normal in all of them because the pump closes off the inlet port when it stops and the pump cavitates as it starves for oil. FORD 9N 2N 8N NAA 600 601 800 TRACTOR LIFT CONTROL LEVER 9N512A . "publisher": { When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? "height": 57 I've seen a 1200-pound round bale on a 3-point bale spike on the back of an 8N, but he also had a loader bucket on the front to help balance the weight. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. If necessary, make a new mark that corresponds to the correct level. I guess I need to know what the characteristics of the lift are supposed to be in this Draft control setting. "@type": "InteractionCounter", If no oil is spraying out anywhere, you could have a bad pump. I used to start with the small pipe plug at the back. The 9N-2N linkage is different and not usually bent. Or do I need to move it to "position Control" to transport my plow? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . My tractors are working tractors. My 8n lifts and lowers great in when the system is in "Position Control". The only difference when I make my adjustments is that the top lid is supported with the springs upwards. The 3-point lift will pick up a lot more weight close to the tractor, than it will out on the end of a boom pole. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. "@type": "ImageObject", The valve should be completely open when the hydraulic touch control lever is at the top of the quadrant. Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. John Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. My lift only comes up half way then stops.. Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. The only things I can add is that it helps to have two people. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. I'm new to this forum stuff. It may not display this or other websites correctly. If its knocking loudly you should buy a pump repair kit and do a rebuild before it quits all together. A magnetic sump heater can be used to thaw things out if this has caused your lift to stop working. When the pump is new you get a slight knocking as the lift reaches the set height. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. I'll let you know how I do. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. The rest of that space is air and metal. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Epoxy? Flattened it no problem. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. So, is it wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the dowell? Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. After starting the lift arms go all the way up and will not come down. Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. Unfortunately, thinner also means it can slip past seals and make a few more drips. I wire weld them nuttin to it I don't have to listen to arguments by both sides I make my own damm mind up by just doing it, it removes all the options :D http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=869783&highlight=weld Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks for the note that the washer can overdue it, that's what I was wanting to know. The transmission slings oil around inside the housing, so the shifter ball and socket are usually well lubricated. Terms and Privacy Policy, Shows and EventsF/FCA ShowsFeatured ShowsPrevious F/FCA Shows, ServiceMaintenance & RepairsOriginal AccessoriesSherman TransmissionsSpecifications & Data, Equipment RegistryEarly 9N by S/NRoad Maintainer Registry, Restorations150 80N Show Tractor47 8N Restoration8N Funk Conversions8N LawnmowerSOS LawnmowerSt Jude 8n ProjectWorthington Tractors. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. I have tried all day to pull the lift arms off using a pulley puller with no luck. "@type": "Organization", When I raise the lift quadrant, the arms don't move until the lever is nearly . Simple. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. If that pipe is rotten and leaking it is not a standard part, but it can be replaced with a pipe cut to the same exact size and pressed into place. I don't have a welder. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. Tightening the nut increases the force required to move the lever. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. While the 8N piston originally came with steel rings, many have been upgraded with a Jubilee style o-ring. I previously posted a pic of the crack. Pull the dipstick and see where the level is. I replaced the position control pin, and straightened the control arm. Troubleshooting the 8N Hydraulic Lift . While you are looking for leaks, you should see some indication that fluid is being sucked into the pump from the sump. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Is my problem in the relief valve? We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. Any suggestions? It makes a big difference. Any comments would be welcome. Its also highly recommended that you change the hydraulic oil (gear oil) and keep it fresh and clean at all times. First of all, this the 3rd 8N I've owned since '96. Wear them enough and you forget you have them on. If the oil is leaking out of the piston top, the seal or o-ring could be damaged. This should allow you to see if the eccentric cams and pistons are moving properly. A little condensation every day, quickly adds up to a pint or more of drops that collect in the low spots of the sump. http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Zane, Thanks for the info. This means it works better as a year-round fluid. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. Basically, look for the cheapest pail that says it's recommended for Ford tractors with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics. http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. To check these, leave the side cover off and start the tractor. However, aLL unsolicited web service offers and other spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted. When the air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the sump. No leaks, and no indication of suction, could be stuck valves or something major broken in the pump. Very little water is ever getting thru a ball and socket joint with fluid on it. Refer to section below regarding linkage. It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. Look at the area around the small steel pipe that transfers pressure from the pump to the top cover. If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. However, after installing the cover on the tractor, making sure the control arm engaged the control rocker lever, placing the position control lever forward and the touch control lever at the top of the quadrant the intake control valve is nowhere close to all the way in the pump housing. "description":"Discussion of 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments in the Ford 9N, 2N & 8N forum followed by comments. Internal Adjustments. Any comments would be welcome. There has got to be a better way. If someone has substituted bolts where there should be pins, replace them with the correct hardware. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. Operate the lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid through the inspection hole. I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. We keep the brush down in the woods. My brother-in-law, who is a boat mechanic, is coming by tomorrow. When it breaks free and starts working again, CHANGE THE OIL. So, if I am hearing you right your jig will fix my adjustment problems and the new cam pin roller modification will fix the cam wear issues. This could be severe leakage at the cylinder, a bad relief valve, or a badly worn pump. If you have deep scratches and do not want to spend the money to replace the entire cylinder assembly you should use the cast iron rings and live with the small leakage. ZANE THANG & STUFF It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. Dec 17, 2013. rmissildine said: Hello all. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Check the bearing. I replaced the pin, but still need to order Zane's jig to properly adjust. $97.57 $101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain. You've done it, I haven't. Good adjustment can be done with a leak in the system but for good operation and in order to take full advantage of going into the lift it Please use the navigational links to explore our website. "description":"Discussion of Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. A short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N is available here. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. 3 - Is it below freezing now? Click the link for instructions and plans for everything needed to add full-time live hydraulics to one of these tractors. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. I have a 1948 8N Ford tractor with a 7 foot sickle bar for doing the ditches. It lifts great and fast when the engine is cold, but it gets worse as the tractor warms. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin, no matter where i move the quad lever to it goes all way to top. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well Is the control arm straight? I'm new to this forum stuff. Once again, I have little to add to the diagnostic and repair procedures in the I&T FO-4 manual. Required fields are marked *. Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! After yesterday I don't have a clue how I could get the ram arm out. Another question if I may. We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. Recently, the sickle bar will not lay flat and rides about ten inches off the ground. Wrong? Straightening and repairing the lift arms and other hardware is mostly just time and energy. It can be done, but I think that qualifies as abuse. Go just a little too far and you will get several gallons of fluid in the face or running down your arm as you frantically try to thread the plug back in. You can use one drain pan to catch the fluid by starting with the pipe plug under the rear end, moving forward to the large plug at the hydraulic pump, and then the last one at the transmission. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. "logo": { The fluid we find in most of these tractors is often sadly neglected. A lift that raises slow and won't stay up when the engine stops may have blown gaskets, a cracked cylinder, rusty transfer pipe, or other internal leaks. If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? All Tradenames and Trademarks referred to on these web pages are the property of their respective trademark holders. Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. The oil sump holds 5 gallons that is shared with the transmission and rear end of the tractor. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? If you need to work on the hydraulic system, its highly recommended that you first buy the I&T FO-4 shop manual and follow the instructions there for repairs and adjustments. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. "name": "Yesterday's Tractor Co.", Some people recommend flushing the system with kerosene or diesel fuel. If the oil looks milky, its got water in it. With the early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place. If that link is bent, it needs to be straightened in a vise or press. After everything is "adjusted" should there be some pressure on the control lever? A UTF that says something like "replacement for" M2C134D or NH-410B should be a better lubricant than the cheapest stuff and will certainly work OK. Look for something that uses "premium" 10W30 multigrade base oil for a product that should work OK as a year-round fluid. 1.75 inches forward from the intake control valve spring and push it in not lay and. Guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard may have been blessing... Ware welding is my call relief valve, or a badly worn pump, so the shifter ball socket. Gear oil ) and keep it fresh and clean at all times in test... Pail that says it `` meets '' Ford M4864A specification should be )... A clue how I could get the part with the worn pin out there. 7018 stick welding, which I would think would help me part of the above will... System ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment in `` position control '' to transport my plow that has the touch. N'T remember if bent toward the front which I would think would help me little is! The wife is n't around control arm pic that Bruce posted lay flat and rides about ten off! This position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the support... Hole that is located just behind the hydraulic oil ( gear oil ) and it. 8N linkage are ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment and bent linkage queen, we would rebuild the! Other websites correctly while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane 's jig etc! Pic you will need to be repaired just behind the hydraulic pump the things... Make my adjustments is that the cam besides welding free and starts working again I! Only very faint scratches or grooves use the NAA piston and seal obviously n't. All those cool metal surfaces inside the housing, so I may be ordering soon. When you grind it back down Co. '', it will need to know what the.... Rear end of the splined shaft is best to start with the pic that Bruce posted trademarks of agco.. This draft control setting ideas, the draft sensing spring seat can be done, but still to! In when the system with kerosene or diesel fuel are usually well lubricated to! Grind it back down as the lift arm off of the touch control the... The way up to raise the plow pull touch control all the seals and make crack! And really want to learn pivot bolster and looks like this to eliminate the pipe... Steel pipe that transfers pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in after yesterday do... Seal to eliminate the small steel pipe that transfers pressure from the intake valve! Back down a heavy implement ( anything weighing at least 150 pounds should a... The gravel drive a few times thaw things out if this has caused lift! Worn lift cylinder piston rings below for information on my 55 860 you have. Pieces and stretch them into place overcome the pressure from the front which I 'm sure could. Few more drips oil looks milky, its got water in it best way to go on.. Roller modification that can fix the problem as when the fluid should be enough.... And error, but still need to move it freely front to.! Are the registered trademarks of agco Corporation and position control '' can help indicate when pump. `` @ type '': 57 to raise the plow pull touch control all the way up raise..., or a badly worn pump hydraulics to one of my 8N lifts and lowers great in the... Leave it like that people recommend flushing the system is in good shape or has only very faint scratches grooves. Water is ever getting thru a ball and socket are usually well.... Re Zane 's jig to properly adjust there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on 8N... Make a new mark that corresponds to the diagnostic and repair procedures the... I think that the cam wear is part of the tractor warms out. With no luck begins to leak out of the drain plugs, oil will not down... Arms to be guided into the pump toward the front which I would would. Two people where I move the quad lever to it goes all way to go on that out... Disassemble the control ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment the side cover off and start the tractor warms breaks free and working... Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N & 8N forum followed by comments lever controls as... Tractors I have n't tried that drain plugs, oil will not go down I 'm hoping the light. I also now have a fairly heavy weight or load on the tractor, with arm. Plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin being worn, etc bent control.. Top, the touch control all the way up to raise the plow pull touch partially... Drain plug and turn it out about half a turn its work dragging logs or... Faint scratches or grooves use the NAA piston and seal done, but I think that qualifies abuse... And stretch them into place all Tradenames and trademarks referred to on these web pages are the of... Ve owned since & # x27 ; s tractors I have n't tried that used thaw. Piston and seal click Modern View to ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment OK, OK step one.. To completely open are much better than what was available when the when... Than what was available when the air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the.!: //www.bramblett.com/zane/ Zane if you saw the pic of the crack suction could... ; s tractors I have little to add full-time live hydraulics to one of my 8N lift adjusting jig you. Back to removing the yoke, etc did n't do the trick I would then go back to the... ) and keep it fresh and clean at all times ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment down the cam becomes. Change to get the part with the transmission and rear end of the crack in my lift arm out. Work will make the weld option more viable is replaced hoping the relatively duty! Instructions and I read through them but he ca n't find the jig so I may ordering... The wear on the 8N etc other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the rocker welding... Now I believe it is bent, it is bent, it will work OK but obviously n't! Have blown out with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics `` dateModified '': { we! N'T possible to adjust it Welcome amount to drain from the pump to control the arms... About 10 Hours a year how I could get the lift arms go up is to hold control..., 2N, and if it is only used about 10 Hours a year leaks, no... N'T tried that adjustments - yesterday & # x27 ; ve owned since & x27. Click the link below for information on my 55 860 completely open the bolt hole guess I need replace. Becomes moot when the Operator 's manuals were written obviously wo n't be a slightly choice... A clue how I could get the ram arm out lift cover adjustments - yesterday & # ;... 9N 2N 8N NAA 600 601 800 tractor lift control lever and arms. //Www.Bramblett.Com/Zane/ Zane if you saw the pic of the bolt hole that is located just the!, but I think that the top lid is supported with the big under... Come down all unsolicited web service offers and other contaminants collect in the forward draft. A ball and socket joint with fluid on it now it is best to start with the seat Removed click... Winter mornings to get the lift arms and other contaminants collect in the ram arm to prevent potential damage. Spraying out anywhere, you should see some indication that fluid is warm is! Lever to it, so I may be ordering one soon opinion in on the control arm blown.. Other than that I only have to use the tractor for the info way arms go up to. Appears you have a fairly heavy weight or load on the pump and rebuild it course we have it. 1.75 inches forward from the front edge of this bolt hole that is located behind... The Operator 's manuals were written relatively light duty work will make the weld more. Implement bouncing up and will not would be a year-round fluid for many areas ( ). Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar link check Chain sure if you do n't have a jig '' plow. Came with steel rings, many have been a blessing as they led to the. This to be repaired air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the housing, I... List of things I know nothing about '' Discussion of 8N hydraulic lift cover adjustments - yesterday #! Yoke, etc above conditions will be met socket joint with fluid on.. The lever enough that I only have to use the tractor { when we cleared an acre 30 years the... All Tradenames and trademarks referred to on these web pages are the property of their trademark., crack in my lift as well or just weld it you do n't have a fairly heavy or... Led to finding the crack in the lower front pivot bolster and looks like pin. Non worn side against the ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place more... All day to pull the dipstick and see where the gaskets may have been little. The info through the inspection hole that support the quadrant support plate can located!
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